In exceptionally simple terms, there are three chief plans employed. You need to be agile enough to hop between techniques almost instantly as the action of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This consists of assembling a 6-thick wall of checkers, or at a minimum as deep as you can achieve, to block in your opponent’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most adequate procedure at the start of the game. You can create the wall anywhere inbetween your 11-point and your 2-point and then shift it into your home board as the match advances.
The Blitz
This involves closing your home board as quick as possible while keeping your opponent on the bar. For example, if your competitor rolls an early 2 and moves one checker from your 1-point to your 3-point and you then roll a five-five, you can play six/one six/one 8/3 8/3. Your opposer is then in big-time calamity because they have two checkers on the bar and you have closed half your home board!
The Backgame
This strategy is where you have two or higher checkers in your competitor’s inner board. (An anchor is a position occupied by at least 2 of your checkers.) It needs to be employed when you are decidedly behind as it much improves your circumstances. The strongest areas for anchors are near your opponent’s lower points and either on adjoining points or with a single point in between. Timing is integral for a competent backgame: besides, there’s no point having two nice anchor spots and a solid wall in your own home board if you are then required to dismantle this right away, while your challenger is getting their checkers home, owing to the fact that you don’t have other additional pieces to move! In this case, it is more tolerable to have checkers on the bar so that you are able to preserve your position up until your opponent gives you an opportunity to hit, so it can be an excellent idea to try and get your opposer to get them in this case!