In exceptionally simple terms, there are three main game plans used. You need to be able to switch techniques almost instantly as the action of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This is composed of assembling a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at a minimum as thick as you can manage, to barricade in your competitor’s checkers that are on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most suitable course of action at the start of the game. You can assemble the wall anyplace inbetween your 11-point and your two-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the game advances.
The Blitz
This is comprised of closing your home board as fast as as you can while keeping your competitor on the bar. e.g., if your opposer tosses an early 2 and shifts one piece from your 1-point to your three-point and you then roll a 5-5, you will be able to play six/one six/one eight/three 8/3. Your opponent is now in big-time trouble seeing that they have two checkers on the bar and you have closed half your inside board!
The Backgame
This plan is where you have two or higher pieces in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor is a point consisting of at a minimum two of your checkers.) It must be employed when you are significantly behind as this strategy much improves your circumstances. The best areas for anchor spots are towards your competitor’s lower points and also on abutting points or with a single point in between. Timing is integral for a powerful backgame: after all, there is no point having two nice anchor spots and a solid wall in your own home board if you are then required to break apart this right away, while your challenger is moving their pieces home, considering that you don’t have other spare checkers to shift! In this situation, it’s better to have pieces on the bar so that you can maintain your position until your opposer gives you an opportunity to hit, so it will be a wonderful idea to attempt and get your challenger to get them in this case!