In astonishingly general terms, there are 3 general tactics employed. You want to be agile enough to switch strategies instantly as the course of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This is comprised of assembling a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at a minimum as thick as you might achieve, to barricade in the opponent’s checkers that are on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most suitable procedure at the begining of the match. You can assemble the wall anyplace inbetween your 11-point and your two-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the match advances.
The Blitz
This is comprised of locking your home board as fast as possible while keeping your competitor on the bar. e.g., if your opponent rolls an early two and shifts one checker from your 1-point to your 3-point and you then toss a 5-5, you will be able to play 6/1 6/1 eight/three eight/three. Your challenger is now in serious calamity taking into account that they have two checkers on the bar and you have closed half your inside board!
The Backgame
This plan is where you have 2 or more checkers in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a point consisting of at a minimum 2 of your checkers.) It should be played when you are decidedly behind as it much improves your chances. The better areas for anchors are near your competitor’s lower points and either on abutting points or with a single point in between. Timing is critical for a competent backgame: after all, there’s no point having two nice anchor spots and a complete wall in your own inner board if you are then forced to break apart this right away, while your opposer is moving their checkers home, considering that you don’t have any other extra pieces to move! In this situation, it is better to have pieces on the bar so that you might maintain your position up until your competitor provides you an opportunity to hit, so it may be a wonderful idea to attempt and get your competitor to get them in this case!