In extraordinarily simple terms, there are three general game plans employed. You must be able to switch game plans almost instantly as the course of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This comprises of assembling a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at least as thick as you are able to manage, to lock in your competitor’s pieces that are located on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most adequate strategy at the start of the match. You can assemble the wall anywhere inbetween your eleven-point and your 2-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the game continues.
The Blitz
This is comprised of locking your home board as fast as as you can while keeping your competitor on the bar. For example, if your opposer tosses an early 2 and moves one piece from your one-point to your three-point and you then toss a 5-5, you are able to play six/one six/one eight/three eight/three. Your competitor is then in big-time calamity since they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have closed half your inner board!
The Backgame
This strategy is where you have 2 or higher pieces in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor is a position occupied by at a minimum 2 of your pieces.) It would be employed when you are significantly behind as this plan greatly improves your circumstances. The strongest places for anchors are close to your opponent’s lower points and also on adjoining points or with one point separating them. Timing is critical for a competent backgame: besides, there’s no point having 2 nice anchors and a solid wall in your own inner board if you are then forced to break apart this straight away, while your opposer is getting their checkers home, taking into account that you do not have other spare checkers to shift! In this situation, it is more tolerable to have pieces on the bar so that you can preserve your position up till your opponent gives you a chance to hit, so it can be an excellent idea to try and get your opponent to hit them in this situation!