In exceptionally simple terms, there are three main plans employed. You must be able to switch game plans quickly as the course of the match unfolds.
The Blockade
This is comprised of assembling a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at least as thick as you can achieve, to block in the competitor’s checkers that are on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most adequate strategy at the begining of the match. You can build the wall anyplace within your 11-point and your 2-point and then shift it into your home board as the game progresses.
The Blitz
This consists of closing your home board as fast as possible while keeping your opponent on the bar. For example, if your opponent tosses an early two and moves one piece from your one-point to your 3-point and you then roll a 5-5, you can play six/one six/one 8/3 eight/three. Your opponent is now in big-time calamity taking into account that they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have locked half your inner board!
The Backgame
This course of action is where you have two or more checkers in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a point filled by at least 2 of your pieces.) It should be played when you are significantly behind as this action greatly improves your circumstances. The strongest places for anchor spots are close to your opponent’s smaller points and also on abutting points or with a single point in between. Timing is important for an effectual backgame: after all, there’s no reason having 2 nice anchor spots and a solid wall in your own home board if you are then required to break down this right away, while your competitor is getting their pieces home, because you don’t have any other extra checkers to shift! In this situation, it’s better to have checkers on the bar so that you can preserve your position up until your opponent gives you an opportunity to hit, so it will be a good idea to try and get your competitor to get them in this situation!